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Modifying the "Slave" DW 9002 Pedal
Posted On 06/04/2008 15:14:08

This entry is to provide information to anybody out there who already owns a DW9002 double-bass pedal.

If I were buying the pedal again, I would buy the 9002ACS which is infinitely harder to find, but has the footboard as one entire unit thereby eliminating the heelplate.


I bought the DW9002 awhile back, and thought to myself, "Now I can play double-bass on one drum, and if I ever want to, I can always use this second pedal as it's own 'stand-alone' pedal or use one on each drum!"

It turns out that's easier said than done! You can add an additional beater to the secondary pedal and use it on a second drum, but because the "secondary" or "slave" pedal derives all of its spring from being connected to the primary pedal, if you ever intend to SEPARATE them and use it on it's own, you're going to need a whole slew of additional parts.

Unfortunately, the parts list for DW pedals is quite involved, and they're all written from the perspective of the "primary" and don't consider modifying the secondary pedal to stand-alone. With the benefit of hindsight, I would now just tell anybody who wants to modify the secondary 9002 pedal to look at the manual for a DW5000, which can be found online at the DW website.

After researching it on my own and talking with the guys at the drum shop about it, I even contacted DW Customer Support. They were immensely helpful and gave me good information, and they also pointed out the "modified" pedal would feel more like a 5000 than a 9000.

The way it turned out, I STILL needed additional parts beyond what DW Customer Serivce originally told me I would need. So, to benefit future generations and hopefully save some trouble and heart-break, here's my list of parts (what they cost me in June 2007) and a brief explanation of what each part is FOR in case you decide you want to make your DW9002 secondary pedal stand on it's own.

  • DWSP032 T-Screw for Toe Clamp - This is the handscrew you would need put underneath the pedal to clamp the "tongue" of the pedal to the bass drum hoop. I don't move mine often so I just tightened the locknut and the alan wrench screws to hold mine in place, otherwise you'll definitely need this to easily tighten and loosen the pedal from the bass drum. Sorry I can't give you a price on this.
  • DWSP025 ($21.00) Spring Assembly - This is the entire spring assembly for a DW 9000, which is actually composed of about five or six different parts. Ordering them as one part ensures you will get all the nuts and parts you need.
  • DWSP066R ($4.95) Stroke Adjustment - The 9002 has an "axle" that connects one side to the other, this is how the "secondary/slave" pedal gets it's spring from the primary. Since you're not connecting them, this is how you're going to connect the axle to your springs. Because this part is powder-coated, you might need to use a small file to clean some of the powdercoat out of it's hole or even use a rubber mallet for some gentle persuasion putting it on, but I assure you "it fits", and BE CAREFUL not to damage your axle putting this part on!
  • DWSP018-3 ($9.99) Rocker Hub - Sometimes called a "Turbo" Rocker Hub, this is sort of a hoop that goes through the loop at the end of the springs. The bolt below connects to the Hub and the Stroke Adjustment, and allows you to bolt the Stroke Adjustment to the springs without torquing the springs each time you fire the pedal.

DW015

  • DWSP015 Slotted Screw - This is the bolt that holds it all together and connects to
  • DWSP061 Square Nut

I eventually went to the hardware store with my various parts and simply found a bolt and nut that would do the job, but I -did- eventually figure out what the parts I needed were and have written them down here to help you!

Note that the DWSP015 bolt is not threaded all the way to the head. My total cost for the nut and bolt via hardware store was under $3.

Below is a picture of the 5000. I supply it for two reasons--

  1. You can see what it looks like when the footboard and heelplate is one unit. This is what the footboards of a DW9002ACS look like as opposed to the DW9002 with the standard heelplate, and
  2. You can see the axle, spring assembly, and everything else on the right side of the pedal. This is what the assembly that can make your 9002 it's own stand-alone pedal looks like when it's completed.

DW5000

I hope the information helps. Best of luck and Happy Drumming!

--Stumpy Joe

Tags: Hardware Drums DW Pedals Homebrew


Heel Up or Down, Matched or Traditional Grip, and Some History
Posted On 06/04/2008 01:34:58

I got a message the other day that reminded me I'd joined this community and hadn't done anything here in awhile.

So I'm enjoying lurking around, reading other people's stuff and answering the polls, but I've had a couple of thoughts in response to some of my answers, and I'll just put them here to share.

In the polls some of the same questions keep cropping up, and I wish I could take back an answer or two I made.

Bass Pedal--Heel Up or Heel Down?

I typically play "Heel Up".

My first instructor insisted that I learn to play "Heel Down" to learn control, keeping the sound of my notes even and consistent, and I agree "Heel Down" is great for learning to keep a steady beat. I played that way for many years, and naively insisted it was the BEST way to control your sound.

However, when playing for a long period of time or playing faster tempos, I found I got muscle cramps, there's a limit to how fast you can play "Heel Down", and I found that I could control my sound just as well with "Heel Up". So I encourage people to learn both, especially because I think "Heel Down" is particularly useful for playing jazz and "straight 4" beats, but also because I believe "Heel Up" is less stressful on the body.


Grip: Matched or Traditional?

I met Bob Ludwig, Jr. (II) when I was young, and he impressed upon me the importance of drummers knowing their history--how can you go forward if you don't know what's come before?! which is why it's great that www.Drummerworld.com has all those videos, so you can go see and hear what Gene Krupa, Max Roach, Papa Jo Jones, and all the other greats were doing.

Drumming, at least from the perspective of playing a drumset to support a band, is unique because it's a fairly "young" instrument. The first hi-hats and bass pedals really weren't around until the 1920s (the first Ludwig Speed King was 1919), so the instrument itself has only been around and evolving into what we play today for the last 85-90 years.

This isn't true with other instruments, which have existed unchanged for long stretches of time. I couldn't say when the first piano-forte existed, but the piano has been around for centuries, and the definitive trumpet exercises were written around the 1880's (Arbans) and have remained largely unchanged up to present day...in theory, a beginning student can buy that book for $50 and if he can play everything in that book flawlessly, he can play anything that can ever be thrown at him musically.

Conversely, the drumkit is still evolving, and being used in new and innovative ways. I think most people recognize "Stick Control" by George Lawrence Stone as "The Bible" of exercises for any good drummer, but in making variations between hands and feet, adding double-strokes and accents, the possible exercises are virtually limitless!

So I think everybody should know WHY traditional style exists, if nothing else. (Short answer: so you had even power between your hands when playing a shoulder-slung marching drum.)

I started with matched grip at age 14, and played that way until I was 20 or so and sold my kit. When I started getting back into drumming in April of 2005, I developed a weird lump in the joint of my right-thumb, so I consulted a doctor and hired an instructor.

The lump was a callus under (and between) the two pads of my thumb in the thumb-joint, because when I was double-stroke rolling at high speeds I was "cheating" my thumb down the side of the stick and essentially absorbing the impact into the joint of my thumb.

Since then, I've come to appreciate and urge other drummers that drumming should not be painful, and how important it is that you don't absorb your rebounds back into your body.

The new instructor and I discussed what I'd previously learned, and completely tore apart everything I was doing and started from scratch, which was both very frustrating and a GREAT learning experience. Still, at the time I was re-starting from Ground Zero I said, "Hey, I'm re-learning everything here, and YOU play traditional grip, should I switch? Is there a benefit to playing traditional grip if I'm going to play jazz?"


Basically he said that, unless I had wrist pains or some other very good reason, there was no need to switch, and I've found most seasoned drummers agree grip is more an issue of personal preference than a matter of control.

Jojo Mayer, in his educational DVD, makes an argument that you can get better "touch" and there's a whole "left different from right" distinction that you get with traditional playing over matched grip, but he also states that there's really not much advantage of one style over the other.

Since then, I play a little traditional, mostly for lighter playing or jazz, or if the band has practiced the same song a few times already I may switch just to stay loose and approach the part from a different way, but I have much better control with matched grip since that's the style I've played with the longest, and again, I encourage drummers to learn both.

That's all for now. Best wishes and Happy Drumming!

--Stumpy Joe

Tags: Opinion Drum Grip Thoughts Polls History




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